Tea in China

tea

For all the tea in China” is an English idiom for an overwhelming abundance. China has been at the heart of the development of the global tea industry for thousands of years.

tea
Tea Tasting
Image available under a Creative Commons license

History of Chinese Tea

Tea drinking may have been established as long ago as 3,000 years ago in the Zhou dynasty. According to legend it was the emperor Shennong who introduced the drink. However it is difficult to be sure whether the infusion was of 'tea' or some other herb. Tea became popular in China at the same time as Buddhism 1,800 years ago. Soon it was cultivated widely in Sichuan and south of the Yangzi. By the Tang dynasty the demand was such that the government imposed control over the trade. Books were written about tea: Lu Yu's Cha Jing (c. 770CE) details amongst many other things which are the best colored porcelain for tea cups to show off the color of the tea. It details the Chinese tea ritual complete with the 24 special instruments needed for it. Some of the suggested additional ingredients to a cup include orange peel, salt and slices of onion. The classic also describes the cultivation of the plant and the best time of day and weather to pick the leaves.

Later on the Chinese tea trade was suppressed in the Yuan dynasty, as the Mongols saw tea drinking as decadent, but was restored as soon as the Ming dynasty came to power. During the Ming the harvested tea leaves began to be dried rather than steamed producing a dry form rather than an oily block.

tea, people
Demonstrating the elaborate tea ceremony at the Du Fu Thatched Cottage Museum, Chengdu, Sichuan

The well-known Japanese tea ceremony came into prominence in the Tokugawa shogunate (1615-1868), when Japanese women were trained to carry out the elaborate steps provide of tea for guests. The story is that tea drinking was introduced by a Buddhist priest from China and the strict rituals of the ceremony come from that origin.


teapot
A Georgian Staffordshire teapot (c.1750) in the shape of a camel made in salt glazed stoneware
Image by Valerie McGlinchey available under a Creative Commons license

Cha is the Chinese word for tea chá from whence the English word 'char' is derived. The English word ‘tea’ comes from the local Fujian dialect which pronounces as ‘ti’. The character has a pictograph of a tree under a lid - suggesting drying and oxidation, the grass radical on top indicates its plant origin. Over centuries of cultivation many other characters were introduced relating to tea, míng is a term for the young leaves; shè and chuǎn for coarse teas.

The Tea trade

Tea came to be the most important Chinese export once the Europeans had acquired a taste for it. It was the Dutch who started the trade at the start of the 17th century. It was initially so expensive that only the very wealthy could afford it. Tea caddies of this date had a lock to protect the expensive leaves. The word ‘caddie’ is derived from ‘catty’ the standard measure for weight of tea. A catty of tea weighs about 1 pound [600 grams]. Along with bolts of silk and silver, catties of tea were used as a currency; tribute to China's neighboring kingdoms was paid in part with catties of tea.

“That excellent and by all Physicians approved, China Drink, Called by the Chineans Tcha, by other Nations Tay alias Tee”,
London Weekly News 21st January 1606.

tea, Taiwan, people, mountains
Harvesting tea by hand in Taiwan
audio lecture
China History Podcast relating to this topic by Lazlo Montgomery (audio only).
Lazlo podcast
The History of Tea

Centuries on and other countries began to take a liking to the infusion. Originally nearly all the exported tea came from the relatively small province of Fujian whose mountainous climate is ideally suited to growing the shrub. As Fujian is a coastal province, transport to Europe was easy by sea with the famous tea clippers vying to make the fastest journey to Europe with the fresh harvest. Some tea was exported to Russia but most went to Britain, and it was the British East India Company that handled the shipping. Trade increased 50 fold in just 80 years. By the late eighteenth century tea accounted for more than 60% of the East India's Company’s trade. It was the huge demand for tea that proved the stimulus for the Opium Wars as China wanted silver in payment for the tea; the trade would have been much more profitable if the tea ships could take merchandise to China in exchange for it. To break the Chinese monopoly in tea cultivation the company started growing tea in the Assam district of northern India. It is said that the ill-fated MacCartney expedition to China (1794) brought back tea plants from China to the botanic gardens at Kolkuta (Calcutta) from these few plants the Indian tea industry may have developed. In order to promote Indian rather than Chinese tea a story came out that tea originally came from India not China. From then on most of the tea drunk in Britain came from northern India and Sri Lanka rather than China.

Porcelain tea sets produced in China became the must have items for tea drinking in Europe. The styles used for export were very different from those used domestically in China.


tea plantation, children
Girl wearing a traditional dress holds a glass of green tea in a tea plantation.

Cultivating Tea

Camellia sinensis (‘Sinensis’ means from China) is the Latin name for the tea plant. The small tree is in the same family as the ornamental Camellia which flowers in Spring. It is kept as a low shrub by pruning. The variety grown in China is the smaller leaved version Camellia sinensis sinensis, while India grows Camellia sinensis assamica. It is the active growing tip that has the lighter and best flavor. Up to five pickings can be collected in one year as the tips rapidly re-grow. The first picking in April is considered the best. Caffeine is the active stimulant that accumulates in the leaves. The foliage's bitter taste keeps away herbivores including goats. In mountainous Fujian goats are used to keep the tea terraces free from weeds as they'll eat everything except the tea plants. The plant grows best in humid conditions, and the moisture off the South China Sea makes Fujian an ideal spot to grow it. Other favored locations include the moist mountains of Sichuan; Jiangxi and Anhui.

tea, Yunnan
Laying out tea leaves to dry, Yunnan

The drink of tea, particularly green tea, is high in anti-oxidants and so has anti-cancer potential as well as lowering cholesterol. There are various categories of tea , green tea is the type that is unprocessed, it is just the fresh dried leaves. In contrast black (or red) tea is oxidized (often misleadingly called 'fermented') and this is the variety generally exported. The length of time that the tea is left to oxidize after picking determines the bitterness introduced. Oolong teas are intermediate in type between green and red. Chinese people usually drink green tea while black tea is drunk elsewhere in the world. This is partly because black tea holds its flavor longer which was essential for transportation on the long sea trips to Europe.

In Mongolia and Tibet tea is added into 'soups' with other ingredients and eaten rather than drunk. 'Yunnan brick tea' is a black tea mixed by the Tibetans with yak butter to produce a creamy strong tea.

Chinese Teas

tea
Chinese tea leaves

Here are some famous teas:

Green tea西 Dragon wellHangzhou, Zhejiang
Green tea洞庭碧螺 Dongding Green SpiralSuzhou, Zhejiang
Green tea Yellow mountain tipHuangshan, Anhui
Green tea GunpowderPingshui, Zhejiang
Green tea Liuan leafJinzhai, Anhui
Green tea珍眉 Chun MeeZhejiang; Anhui
Oolong tea夷岩Wuyi Rock TeaWuyi, Fujian
Oolong tea溪铁观 Anxi Iron GoddessAnxi, Fujian
Yellow tea银针 Jun mountain Silver needleYueyang, Hunan
Black tea KeemunQimen, Anhui
Black tea Lapsang SouchongWuyi, Fujian
Black teaSzechwan ImperialSichuan
White tea毫银针 White Tip silver needleFuding, Fujian
White tea牡丹 White PeonyFujian
Puerh tea Yunnan PuerhPuerh, Yunnan
Jasmine茉莉 Jasmine flowerFuzhou, Fujian

Scented teas, including Jasmine and Yulan tea include some jasmine flowers of which 'Chun Feng' (Spring Breeze) is a famous example.

tea house
A tea house in Beijing
Image by Luo Shaoyang available under a Creative Commons license

Drinking tea

There are elaborate traditions for preparing tea for drinking. The best tea should be made with freshly boiled soft water in a small copper kettle; hard water containing lime should be avoided. A porcelain teapot is best. Chinese teacups often come with a lid, useful for filtering the leaves that are left in the cup. Green tea is drunk without milk and sugar and for this reason teaspoons are not generally found in China.

Tea houses in China have been a traditional meeting place for centuries, particularly in Sichuan province. As well as sipping green tea customers play Chinese chess and Mahjong, or read newspapers. Peddlers of various trades frequent the tea house including a Sichuan specialty - the ear picker who cleanses the ear while you sit in the tea house. A cup will be replenished with boiling water several times before the leaves are finished with, the middle infusions are considered the best flavored.

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Citation information: Chinasage, 'Tea in China', last updated 21 Oct 2015, Web, http://www.chinasage.info/tea.htm.

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